Ramps

the window is short for those of us blessed to be around them.

circa spring 2021, when I first discovered the ease of foraging for these short-lived gems.

Ramps,

I first discovered them in 2010 at the Union Square farmer’s market in New York City. A magical allium that is native to the east coast of the United States and is only available for about three weeks. The flavor? It’s an oniony, garlicky, leek like ingredient that is, for lack of a better explanation, extremely ramp-like. The obsession was real then, and they were sold to me, and still are to others as rare, and hard to find. My obsession continues for their flavor, with the added caveat that I refuse to pay money for them. Because…

Ramps are easy to find. since moving to northern Fairfield CT a few years ago, I’ve stumbled across ramps:

1. on the side of the road, 1/4 of a mile from my home.

2. on the trails I ride my mountain bike on.

3. across several acres of wetlands at the bottom of a friend’s property.

4. in a small patch next to my outdoor trash bin

The point is this: with spring here, I can’t think of an easier ingredient to forage yourself, city slickers, take a train north and walk the woods! Why? because you’ll be avoiding this:

photo Lish Steiling

Yes, that’s right folks, ramps are expensive*

*unless you pick them yourself - recommended!

But they are the joy of my spring, and here are a few of my favorite things to do with them:

Combination 1: Ramps, herbs, butter

in a food processor, or a mixing bowl, combine

1 stick room temp unsalted butter,

2 teaspoons finely chopped ramps and stems (about 5 ramps)

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh parsley, tarragon, mint, or basil.

1 finely chopped anchovy,

pulse, or stir until homogenized, spread the mixture out on a piece of parchment paper, then roll it into a uniform log, wrapped in the parchment, and refrigerate until ready to use.

use on toasted bread,

as a starting fat when cooking fish, veg, mushrooms or other allium,

as a finisher for pasta, rice, or quinoa.

any other ideas?:

Combination 2: Salmon & ramp gremolata

for 2:

take 4 ounces (110g) ramps and put about 1/4 of them to the side.

make the gemolata, Finley chop the small pile of ramps, and add them to a small mixing bowl with the juice of 1 fresh lemon, a tablespoon (10g) of capers, 2 tablespoons (30g) olive oil, and 3 tablespoons (40) pistachio nuts.

salt to taste.

Saute, 1/2 a red onion, and the large pile of ramps with a little olive oil, once cooked down, remove them to the side and sear off 2 pieces of salmon, during the last 3 minutes of cooking the salmon, return the onions and cooked ramps to the pan to reheat them.

serve with the gremolata.

combination 3: Ramps, Sardines, & pasta

pasta for 4-6 people:

saute 8 ounces (220g) ramps in olive oil with 3 tablespoons (50g) pine nuts, and a pinch of salt.

once cooked down, shut off the heat, add 4-6 deboned sardines, Calabrian chili paste, and cover, until the pasta is ready.

Cook 1 pound (450g) spaghetti, add it to the ramp sauce, get the consistency right with some pasta water, and finish with toasted breadcrumbs.

yes, I’ve changed the name of this offering:

Welcome to COMBINATIONS

With my book coming out, and the new tv series shooting next week, substack feels that it’s a bit of a competing offering. I want to differentiate it from the other projects I’m working on, and from what others are doing - so, starting today, we’re changing the name to combinations, and while I’ll continue writing recipes, the format is becoming looser - which is a benefit to you, because I can spitball ideas, that will give you ideas of combinations that work together, and we can all cook recipe-less. the ideal way to cook at home. don’t be scared, this is going to be great!